95 Tim Atkin
People forget that Clos des Mouches produced its first red wine in 1921 – seven years before Drouhin made a white – but the quality of the two is often of equal stature. If anything, I slightly prefer the red version in 2016, which combines a touch of whole bunch spice with refined oak and silky red berry fruit. 2020-28
(average production in this large holding was 28 hectoliters per hectare, with potential alcohol ranging from 12.8% to 13.2% in the various lots; vinified with 25% whole clusters): Healthy medium red. Deep nose displays red and darker berries accented by spices, minerals and flowers; ultimately a bit blacker in character than the Grèves. Also more airy in the mouth, with a very fine-grained texture and harmonious acidity that makes the Grèves seem almost heavy by comparison. Lovely subtle inner-mouth perfume here. Finishes with nicely delineated fruit and spice notes, lively tannins and saliva-inducing minerality.