Bara’s red wine from Bouzy is made from old vines of pinot noir up to 50 years of age, and vinified entirely in steel tanks.The wine is outstanding, demonstrating a deep color that hints at the intensity of fruit to come, and the nose expands on this even further, revealing a deep, tensely-wound core of crushed berry aroma. This is remarkably intense yet it achieves this intensity with virtually no weight whatsoever — at only 12.5 percent alcohol, it’s buoyant and effortlessly ethereal, while the old-vine depth of fruit demonstrates a quiet, subtly resonant grip that is capable of stopping you in your tracks. There is a profound sense of place exhibited by this wine, feeling undeniably, incontrovertibly a product of Bouzy. Despite the ample and persistent ubiquity of fruit aromas, this is entirely infused by a detailed and sophisticated sense of chalk, infiltrating the whole with an unassuming yet pervasively assertive presence that leaves you with the feeling that soil, not ripeness, is the dominant characteristic here. This is a reference standard, not only for Bouzy, but for Coteaux Champenois as a category.